Any suggestions what might be causing that, i almost do not want to bother with that because of how great she has been running, we don't even think it was the fuel pump at all, because my old one was running strong. The only thing is my fuel gauge still does not work.
#2007 ford taurus bad fuel pump module code
After locating the bad connection and correcting it's problem, everything seems to be going great, another important reminder is resetting all the trouble codes, I got lucky to have a friend that happened to have the code reader and he took care of everything for me, what we couldn't find in a month he found in 2 days. She is all fixed and running like a champ, the problem was a loose wire harness connector located underneath the distributor, the ignition module. But I was told Walbro's pumps are very good? Anyway, it's a public parking near the 9-storeyed block, so I guess they'll have to see my shoe sole more often this week If that was a fuse, it wouldn't behave this way i think. So I knocked the fuel tank with a wooden hammer several times, and tried the key again - barely heard humming suddenly buzzed back? I knocked it again and tried cranking the engine - it almost did it, but still no go. I measured resistance on the switch plug pins and it showed about 1.5 Ohm - exactly the same value as the installed Walbro's pump had on itself. The wires near the Ford's fuel shut-off switch (in the trunk) were warm. The other problem to find out was that the newly installed pump is probably also flawed:Īfter returning home happily from the friend's garage 15 miles away, on the very next day, I heard no humming buzz from the pump on the key switch. the PCM one) if you have your engine to randomly stall still. I do advise to replug the connectors under the hood (incl. I think I should have done it earlier because I have seen the codes in memory: 14 (PIP circuit failure) and 18 (SPOUT circuit open or IDM circuit failure). Looks like one of the plug's pins got oxidized/covered with some corrosion over time, so the solution was basically to switch off the ignition, have the plug out and then back in.
Imagine, it was as simple as the plug to the ingition distributor: when pressed, the engine recovered quickly. When engine started to about to stall, we quickly started probing all the wires under the hood and near tank to see if any wire makes the difference. luckily, it got reproduced in the garage, after several cranks and running idle. When it has finally arrived from U.S, I have replaced original Motorcraft's one - only to find out the problem is still there.
After being stranded several times, I also thought it was a pump: during the tests with pressure gauge, sometimes the pressure dropped to 28-29, and also PCM returned a code 41 "system lean" on daily basis after some 10 minutes of driving) so I have ordered a new pump from Walbro Inc. Hi, guys! I used to have a similar problem with my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan, though live in Novosibirsk city.
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